Save me time:
Go for products with retinol, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid as they are proven very effective in anti-ageing and preserving the appearance and hydration of the skin. Products with glycolic acid and vitamin C generally don’t show the same benefits and you shouldn’t overpay for them.
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It’s a bold claim to say we know what works and what doesn’t. So right from the start, we need to be clear that no one has the perfect solution. Skin care is very individual, with different types of skin, different reactions to ingredients, and in general, different priorities. For some it’s anti-ageing, for others it’s hydration or smoothness. If it was well-defined what worked the best and what didn’t beauty products would be like bottled water, basically the same thing every time.
That said, the skin care industry is a marketing buffet, every brand is pining for your attention with fancy new ingredients, promises of eternal youth and every technique in the book to get you to open your wallet. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, marketing is a part of the corporate world. As consumers, especially when our skin is on the line, we should be getting quality for our money. That’s why it’s important to be aware of which ingredients are likely to give us the best results and which are just there to pad out the price tag. You should be buying products that have proven results and have been reputably reviewed—tested in-house doesn’t cut it. Unbiased scientific evidence is what is called for, but don’t fear, we’ll keep it to the point. So let’s get straight to it and start with those ingredients that are worth the money:
Effective ingredients
Retinol
A vitamin A derivative that increases skin cell turnover and has been shown to decrease fine lines and wrinkles. Studies show benefits of up to a 32% reduction in fine lines and wrinkles for long-term users. No other ingredient shows this anti-ageing potential. There are natural alternatives like bakuchiol which has also proven to be effective in reducing fine lines. For example, one study showed an 18% reduction after 12 weeks, to be outdone by traditional retinol at 23%. There was no additional sensitivity in the retinol group. Some participants claimed more peeling, but overall irritation was not significantly different, and participants using bakuchiol noted more redness across the study. Although not its primary purpose, retinol has also been shown to help with hyper-pigmentation, reducing red spots and unevenness in around 50% of patients, according to one study.
Niacinamide
Often an under-appreciated ingredient, and under-marketed due to its difficult to pronounce name. Is also sold as vitamin B3 and has been long shown to benefit the skin with improvements to elasticity, hyperpigmentation and redness. As early as 2005 we can see studies of its efficacy in maintaining skin youthfulness. Scientific studies have also shown it to greatly benefit patients of rosacea. This was suggested to be due to its ability to improve the skin barrier and its antimicrobial effect. Also safeguarding the skin against acne in general. It has been used safely in concentrations up to 5% and is very well tolerated. It is a terrific complement to retinol as it calms redness and maintains hydration by preventing hydration loss.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a natural substance found in the body, a small molecule that can hold 1000 times its volume in water, and performs many roles. One of which is to draw water from the dermis to the epidermis (basically, it draws water to the surface of the skin). This has been shown to significantly increase skin hydration and ward off signs of ageing—as depleted levels of hyaluronic acid in older individuals is one of the mechanisms suggested to contribute. It has been well supported by the skin in applications like fillers, topical creams and peels. One study showed that certain types of hyaluronic acid can significantly reduce wrinkle depth and greatly improve intracellular hydration. A number of these studies ran for up to 6 months, demonstrating that it is safe for long-term use, can serve as a valuable tool against anti-ageing and greatly increases the effectiveness of moisturisers.
Less effective ingredients
Glycolic acid
Often used as a peel or exfoliating agent, glycolic acid has very little evidence to support its use in a cream or as a daily formulation. One study showed little to no improvement over a placebo regular cream over 12 weeks. In another study, 3 full-strength glycolic acid peel sessions were still shown to be slightly less effective than a retinol-type cream for wrinkles over an extended period. At higher cost and more adverse irritation. That said, it may have some use in acne treatment as a glycolic acid cream combined with azelaic acid was shown to be just as effective as a tretinoin cream for medium-severity patients. But for purely anti-ageing purposes it appears that a retinol-based cream is the better option.
Vitamin C
A very common ingredient in skin care products, likely due to its low production costs, vitamin C is often suggested to help ageing, dry or irritated skin. There is lacking evidence to support this. In general, it has not been shown to significantly improve wrinkles, and at a stretch, may help to prevent some formation of fine lines in the long term. This may be due to its antioxidant effect which can help prevent UV damage. However, one of the studies showing this also combined their cream with vitamin E, which has been shown in its own right to be UV protective. Keep in mind that we are talking about topical applications, and nutritionally you should make sure to get enough vitamin C through fruits and vegetables. As a topical ingredient, there is little evidence to support its use as a key ingredient. There might be some evidence that vitamin C prevents water loss, but compared to niacinamide the evidence is weak and should be treated with caution.
Wrapping up
So what does this all mean? Well, as we know, moisturisers are basically just creams that form a barrier and keep our skin from losing water. This is why it’s always ideal to apply to a slightly damp face or after a shower. But overall you should be looking for products with retinol, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to apply daily. Retinol isn’t just for older individuals looking to remove fine lines and wrinkles, it greatly helps prevent them and reduces the development of pigmentation. Notably, it does increase sun sensitivity which is why it’s ideal for application at night. Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, are great compliments to retinol as they also improve anti-ageing and hydration and can be used any time. But here’s the deal. Don’t overpay for products containing glycolic acid (or other acids of the same family) or vitamin C, as they aren’t nearly as effective as the mentioned ingredients for the same anti-ageing and skin enhancing benefits.
A small aside, but a fundamental part of According to Aegle, is our promise to bring you the best in holistic health (and that also means science), not just sell products. For that reason, we also publish bite-sized bits of health and beauty advice called ‘Aegle’s Advice’. Starting right here with Aegle’s Advice #1: Look for products with retinol, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid for your night-time routine. We’ll be bringing these to your attention frequently, so stay tuned.
Now we don’t need to pretend that According to Aegle doesn’t happen to have a healing night cream designed with all of this in mind. The full-strength retinol is perfectly balanced by the niacinamide, which helps ward off irritation even in long-term use. So it’s perfectly suited to those with sensitive skin as well. With rosehip and cucumber oil, a subtle scent and great hydration, it suits for all skin types, ages and genders. Combining our healing cream with a few drops of hyaluronic acid is an amazing way to put the best ingredients to work on your skin and have you waking up hydrated and ready to face the day.
Aegle's Healing Night Essence
Aegle, the goddess of radiant health, delivers you her secret healing night cream. With 1% retinol, 0.5% niacinamide, rosehip oil and other handpicked ingredients you'll look and feel rejuvenated every morning.
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So now you know what to look for and what not to overpay for. But the list isn’t extensive, and we’ll be updating you with more information to help you be a god or goddess in your own world.